To the Sea by Train
The most enjoyable book I read in January was a Christmas present from Jem and Anna. Andrew Martin is prolific railway historian and novelist, and To the Sea by Train is a historic, anecdotal look at the golden age of British railway travel. In 1846 there were [apparently] 272 railway companies in the UK ; a number that was reduced to about 120 by the Railway Grouping of 1923, and later reduced to the Big Four. The Bank Holiday Act of 1871 and, later, the Holidays with Pay Act of 1938 transformed the holiday and leisure industry. And British seaside resorts and British railways grew in parallel with each other. In the 1890s Blackpool received a million visitors a year, the majority arriving by train. Blackpool was served by three separate stations, and it was said that in 1911 Blackpool Central with its fourteen platforms [the same number as Paddington] was the busiest railway station in the world. There were 36 licensed photographers on the Blackpool foreshore in 1895, 62 sellers of fruit, 47 of sweets, 52 of ice-cream, and 21 of oysters and prawns.

Away from the obvious resorts, Martin tells us about lesser-known railway-made resorts. Cleethorpes in Lincolnshire was a genteel watering place until the arrival of the railway in 1863. The prime mover in this initiative was Edward Watkin, General Manager of the Manchester Sheffield & Lincolnshire Railway. [Watkin’s more ambitious project was for the Great Central Railway, which would link London to France via a Channel Tunnel.] Silloth was a sleepy village in Cumberland on the Solway Firth, inhabited mainly by rabbits. But a railway line was built in the 1850s, followed by a housing estate, two hotels, a gasworks, a sewerage system, and public baths. On Whit Monday 1963 3,000 visitors came to Silloth by train. But Dr Beeching closed the line there following year, and Silloth has returned to obscurity.
Martin has some interesting comments on class issues. The more popular seaside resorts were characterised by risqué postcards, holidaying drunks, fearsome landladies, and spooning couples. So gradually the middle class developed their own, more genteel refuges from the [common] excursionists. Thus, by 1901, Brighton had its Hove, Hastings its Bexhill, Margate its Westgate and Birchington, Whitby its Sandend, Cromer its Sheringham, Blackpool its St Anne’s, Weston-Super-Mare its Clevedon, and Ilfracombe its Woolacombe.

I can be quite nostalgic about railways and steam trains. My paternal grandfather was a train driver on the London Underground. My maternal grandfather was a station master on the GWR [also known to its followers as God’s Wonderful Railway]. Until 1953, when my grandfather retired, we spent all our holidays at Minety, two stations out of Swindon on the Cheltenham line; and my brother and I had the run of the station for our entertainment. Before the invention of Health and Safety ! It was like something out of Thomas the Tank Engine. But, although we holidayed at a succession of English resorts for the rest of the 1950s, in Devon and Cornwall, in North Wales and Dorset, the family now travelled by car. And I have no experience of the noisy, beery anarchy of the Bank Holiday Specials.
Rugby
Those who don’t like rugby should look away now. It is time for the Six Nations. A season that usually spans late Epiphany and the early days of Lent. The mornings are getting a little lighter. There are signs of life in the garden, snowdrops and hellebores. I have made two shepherd’s pies, one for the freezer, and there is some beer in the fridge. The hobbling gloom of January lifts a little. There is a month of Six Nations rugby to look forward to.
Yes, I played rugby at school some 70 years ago. But not very well and without much enjoyment. I usually played prop and occasionally number 8. The scrum did all the work and the backs got all the glory. Or so it seemed. In the 50s the public school divisions between athletes and aesthetes had largely disappeared. But I remember a boarding school contemporary, subsequently a Cambridge professor, going to some trouble one Friday night to carry a large turd out to the first XV pitch and to deposit it near the midway line. The memory is embarrassing. And he is no longer with us.
Watching rugby
I first got into rugby in the aftermath of the British Lions tour of New Zealand in 1971. It was the only Lions team to win a series in New Zealand, achieving a 2-1 victory over the All Blacks; and the stars of the team were mainly Welsh, Gareth Edwards, Barry John, and J.P.R. Williams. I don’t remember seeing any of the games on the tv at the time, and black-and-white clips on YouTube look distinctly dated. But there was certainly a buzz in the rugby world, and I started watching live games, initially at Rosslyn Park, where my younger brother Peter subsequently played for the CCs; and then at London Welsh, a team that included a clutch of British Lions, notably John Dawes and Mervyn Davies. They were an attractive side to watch, but looked a bit lightweight when teams like Gloucester with a pack of gnarled forwards came to town.

J.P.R. Williams with 1971 British Lions
During the following 50 years I have watched a wide variety of games, both internationals and club rugby, in England, in Scotland, and in France. And memorably in South Africa. I don’t easily remember who won, or what the score was. But I remember people and places and glimpses of wizardry. Early memories are of Middlesex Sevens. My first visit must have been in 1970, when Loughborough Colleges were the winners and Keith Fielding, a dual code international, ran in a hatful of tries including four against Edinburgh Wanderers in the final. For the next few years the winners were London Welsh, initially with Gerald Davies on the wing. But he subsequently moved inside to centre as they uncovered a succession of Welsh speedsters.

Gerald Davies
When Susie and I lived in Paris in the mid-70s I would go to home internationals with my friend Clive. France played then at the Parc des Princes, which was a straightforward bus journey from Alésia. We never bought tickets in advance. In those days it was possible go early, to scout around the cafes near the ground, and to buy surplus tickets from other fans usually at cost price. Susie and I were married in Edinburgh on January 11th, 1975 and one week later, after a short honeymoon in Annecy, on January 18th, Clive and I saw the France v. Wales game, in which Wales gave first caps to the Pontypool front row, known as the Viet-Gwent. In the second half Graham Price, on his debut, ran some 70 yards to score and fell on the ball over the line out of exhaustion. Wales won 25:10. It was their last victory for another 25 years. The following month we were there when Scotland came to town. Within the first ten minutes Gérard Cholley, a tough French prop from Castres, and an amateur boxer, had laid out two of the Scottish forwards.
The following year Clive and I trained to London for the weekend for Middlesex Sevens. As I recall it was London Welsh again. More intriguingly we also went to a PUC [Paris University] sevens tournament at the Stade Charlety. Of which my chief memories are of a rampaging Andy Ripley, playing for some English guest side, going on bullocking runs up the centre of the pitch. And of a curly-haired Jo Maso, who must have been very close to retirement, showing some very silky skills playing for the Narbonne seven..

Andy Ripley, Rosslyn Park
On a very wet day in south-west France in November 1977 I saw the touring All Blacks captained by Graham Mourie beat a French regional selection at Angoulème. The All Black pack included ‘Fearless Frank’ Oliver and a young Andy Haden. I got into conversation with a big New Zealander under an umbrella on the touch-line about the relative merits of fly-half Barry John and Phil Bennett. And discovered from a regional paper the next day that I had been talking to the legendary All Black full back Don Clarke.
Back in England I went up to Gloucester occasionally, one or twice with my friend Peter. The crowd in The Shed were always very vocal and very partisan, and happy to boo any opposing kickers. I was in Cambridge once and saw what looked like a British Lions team masquerading as Steele-Bodger’s XV play Cambridge University at Grange Road. David Duckham was in imperious form for the visitors. Who had the wonderful Frenchman Denis Charvet of Stade Toulousain playing in the centre. Or is that a false memory ?

During our years in Lyon I went regularly to see Bourgoin-Jallieu play at the Stade Pierre Rajon. Bourgoin is a small, one horse town and the team was bank-rolled by a businessman who had made his money from boxed, supermarket salads. For historic reasons the team played in Aston Villa colours. Bourgoin were not a glamorous side and they played attritional rugby. But during my years there they produced a clutch of French internationals, mainly forwards: Julien Bonnaire, Sébastien Chabal, Olivier Millou, Lionel Nallet, and Pascal Papé. As well as scrum half Morgan Parra. The big name and most-capped player at Bourgoin was Marc Cécillon, the number 8 and flanker, after whom the stand was named. But in the summer of 2004 when he shot his wife dead after a drunken row at a party there was some rapid rebranding. He was subsequently found guilty of murder, and sentenced to 20 years in prison. But was freed on parole in 2011.

Bourgoin-Jallieu, at the Stade Pierre Rajon
Scotland and France are my preferred Six Nations teams. Our decade in Duns in the Scottish Borders was ideal for Melrose, the birthplace in 1883 and spiritual home of rugby sevens. My first trip there was in 1979 with my father-in-law, George Malloch. The winners were Stewart’s Melville, whose seven consisted largely of Calder brothers. Or so it seemed. In the following decade Kelso were most often finalists and winners. But in the 1990s the title was often won by glamorous guest teams from the southern hemisphere, Randwick, Manly, and Bay of Plenty. The Greenyards remains my favourite ground in the world, though now it is a difficult bus journey from Edinburgh. It involves changing buses in Galashiels. And on Sevens Days the buses no longer go down into the centre of Melrose.

Melrose Sevens, The Greenyards, 2016
I might resist the temptation to pick a Favourite/Best Ever team from players that I have seen. But candidates would certainly include J.P.R. Williams and Serge Blanco at full back. Gerald Davies and David Duckham and [the late] Jack Cantoni on the wings. Denis Charvet and Jeremy Guscott [after whom our border collie was named] as silky, peerless centres.

Jeremy Guscott, Bath, England, and British Lions
Gareth Edwards partnered by Barry John or Phil Bennett at half back. Fran Cotton and Mike Burton, David Sole, Iain Milne, Robert Paparemborde in the front row. Almost any hooker would do. And the Scottish back row of their 1990 Triple Crown and Grand Slam team: Fin Calder, John Jeffrey, and Derek White. But I would also want to make room for the imperious French back-row player Olivier Magne. Known to his admirers as Charlemagne. And the fearless Scottish back-row forward David Leslie. I first saw him play in one of those January Scottish trials when he was playing for Dundee HSFP. He missed a couple of tournaments with injuries, including a broken leg, but he was subsequently a stalwart and captain at Gala, and practised as an architect in the Borders. And I’ve left out the great, long-haired Andy Ripley, of Rosslyn Park and England, who died all too young.

Scotland Grand Slam 1990
PostScript

It is easy for old farts to think that all the important things in life get steadily worse: sausages, standards in public life, the quality of Sunday preaching, and international rugby. But I was hugely encouraged, at least in part, by the first round of this year’s Six Nations. Yes, Wales are hitting a new low, short of players, money, ideas, and leadership. Yes, Scotland were dire against Italy, a good team on paper woefully under-performing. And confirming that Gregor Townsend will have to go. But Italy were excellent in atrocious conditions in Rome. England with a vast pool of high class players continued their winning ways. And France in Paris, at least for the first half, played some of the best rugby I have seen in years. France v. England in Paris on Saturday, March 14th, could be a tumultuous climax to the tournament.
Roll on Le Crunch !
February 2026





















































